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The Times They Are a-Changin’ Article and photos by Sezin Koehler The air, freezing, whips through me—finding every tiny gap in my multiple layers to make my skin tingle and head spin.

The 18 tram is running late and I worry that I'll collapse before it arrives, as this extreme cold is just too much for a body that is used to tropical climates and sunlight.

When I arrived the Czech Republic was not yet a part of Schengen, a border-free agreement between many European nations.

In the last ten years I've moved 13 times, lived in nine different cities in six countries.

If you'll be here for a week or a year, it's always a good idea to get a multi-day or multi-month tram pass just to make sure you're covered.

The fine is hefty, amounting to roughly , which can really hurt if you're on a teachers' salary, not to mention all the dirty looks you'll get from locals—which by itself is an embarrassment that is worth avoiding.

You don't want to end up like the few dozen Americans and Canadians who were deported last year, meaning they can't return to any Schengen country for five years.

While Schengen makes some of our lives more difficult, it's done a great deal in legitimizing the Czech Republic as a part of the European Union.

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